A Granite Capital

Long before Albarracín became the top mainstream bouldering destination in Spain, (not hatin´, just sayin´), the national ‘machos’ tested bravery and strength on the granite boulders in the unique forest of La Herrería in El Escorial, and on the vast extension of rocks of La Pedriza´s National Park. Some other small surrounding areas, like Zarzalejo, complete what once was, and for some of us still is, Spain’s Bouldering Capital, where numbers don’t come cheap and where the endless hours spent at your local gym won’t make up for the much needed technique and foot finesse.

These condition-dependant and sharp boulders have tested the skin of some big international climbing names and served us all with screaming sore elbows and Ibuprofen addiction, but as much as it sounds like hell, on the right day it feels like a climber’s heaven.

Development is forever ongoing. La Pedriza locals stay active due to the endless possibilities provided by the magnitude of the territory and the abundance of quality boulders of all sizes. Some areas are easily accessible, while others emerge after a steep approach. The condition of the rock is stunning, and it provides for all climbing styles, be it fridge-lifting compression, soaring dynos or crimp squeezing highballs.

These boulders share location with some of the most extreme slab climbs in the world, with the recent ascent of the steep 30m glass-like Territorio Comanche graded 8c+ and the already classic but barely repeated Art-Herencia just to name a couple. Also, exposed multi-pitch sport and trad routes of all grades, hiking, biking and other mountain activities coexist in a small town with a sizeable climbing community and a longtime outdoor culture.

No more than a half hour away, El Bosque de la Herrería, a quiet forest located in the historically significant Spanish town of El Escorial, is currently under a temporary climbing restriction. Consequently, it won’t be seeing new rigs any time soon, but the very early national hard problems were set up in the ‘90s by extremely motivated climbers that split their teenage enthusiasm between developing new areas in Madrid and their constant 1200km driving expeditions to Fontainebleau—hence the similarity in grading. Fitness will take you a long way, but be ready to hit the mat and scratch your head on a technical 6b.

Climbing at El Escorial is (or was) very special. Boulders are mostly explosive and technical. The granite is exquisite and fine; the autumn smells and colours exaggerated; the scenery magical. It’s obvious that the nature of granite climbing acts as a natural filter for both new and experienced climbers, due to its demands on skin and weather conditions, contributing to a the lack of commercial success and popularity of recently developed climbing ‘meccas’, but the climbing community in Madrid and central Spain is devoted, and of singular character.

Visitors are always welcome. We are friendly people, especially on days with good friction. We will show you around and climb ‘til late. Maybe even drink a few beers. Just be sure to bring some quality tape.